The B4500 is a very special road. Not that you’d guess it from the map. It begins just off the A5 at the town of Chirk and disappears about 18 miles later into a network of narrow country roads.
It’s special because it runs the length of the Ceiriog valley through a remarkable variety of landscapes – gentle pasture, woodland, sheer rock faces and glimpses of high mountain ridges and brooding moorland.
The place Lloyd George called “a little piece of heaven on earth” remains so miraculously unspoilt that travelling beside the trout-filled River Ceiriog feels like a journey into the distant past.
You can stick to the car if you like. But if you really want to know the story of this secret valley, to hear its ancient language and see the sheepdogs working in the fields, follow the Ceiriog Valley Walk. It links all the villages between Chirk and Llanarmon and, as a bonus, provides spectacular views of 13th-century Chirk Castle.
Start: Colliery Road car park, Chirk LL14 5PA