Look up from Llangollen and you’ll spot them: the dramatic ruins of Castell Dinas Brân, perched on the hill above the town. They’re an inviting sight from below, but make the climb and you’ll discover a place where centuries of history meet wonderful Dee Valley views. Pack your walking shoes, bring something to drink and leave time for a few pauses along the way. This is a walk to savour, not race!

Landscape with a long story

Long before the stone castle appeared, this hill was an Iron Age hillfort. Standing here today, it’s easy to understand the appeal: the steep slopes offered natural protection, while the commanding position gave a clear view of the surrounding landscape.

The medieval castle we see today was built in the 13th century by the Welsh rulers of Powys Fadog, probably under Gruffudd ap Madog in the 1260s. Often known in English as Crow Castle, it was much more than a lookout. Its great hall, towers, gatehouse and enclosing walls formed an impressive princely residence as well as a stronghold.

Its life as a working fortress was surprisingly short. In 1277, as forces serving Edward I approached, the Welsh defenders set fire to the castle to prevent it being used by the advancing army. The stone defences survived, and the site saw further military use, but it was eventually abandoned as Holt Castle became the centre of a new lordship. The ruins left behind still give a tantalising glimpse of its former grandeur.

Donkeys, artists and a hilltop tearoom

The castle’s story didn’t end in the Middle Ages. By the 19th century, visitors were making their way up for the scenery, sometimes hiring donkeys to help with the climb. There was even a tearoom and a camera obscura at the summit, offering another way to admire the landscape. Artists including J. M. W. Turner and Richard Wilson were inspired by the castle, too. There’s no hilltop tearoom today, so bring your own refreshments and save your café stop for Llangollen!

The walk up from Llangollen

You can leave the car in one of Llangollen’s town car parks and begin on foot. For a straightforward out-and-back walk, head across Llangollen Bridge to the north side of the River Dee, use the pedestrian crossing on the A539 and make your way up Wharf Hill towards the canal. From the canal area, follow the signs for Castell Dinas Brân onto the uphill footpath beside the school grounds.

Keep following the signed route as it climbs between fields and onto the open hillside. The ascent becomes steeper as you approach the castle, so take your time and enjoy looking back towards the town. Allow roughly 45 minutes to an hour for the climb from Llangollen, depending on your pace, and longer for the whole outing once you’ve explored and walked back down. This is a proper uphill walk rather than a gentle stroll.

At the top, pause to take in the views across Llangollen, the Dee Valley and the surrounding hills. Wander carefully among the surviving walls and imagine the courtyard and buildings that once stood here. When you’re ready, retrace the signed route to town, taking particular care on the steep descent. Carry a suitable walking map or a downloaded route rather than relying on this overview alone, and follow any local signs or diversions.

A few tips before you set off

• Come prepared: wear sturdy footwear with good grip and bring water, a waterproof and an extra layer. The hillside is exposed, and paths can be slippery after rain. Check the forecast and allow enough daylight for your return.
• Know the terrain: steep, uneven paths make this route unsuitable for wheelchairs and pushchairs. If the climb isn’t for you, you can still enjoy views of the castle from the town and valley below.
• Look after the place: keep dogs on a lead around livestock, leave gates as you find them and take litter home. Admire the historic stonework without climbing on it, and keep children close around steep slopes and ruins.
• Plan your stops: there are no visitor facilities at the castle, so use facilities in town before setting off. Check the local visitor information for practical details before your visit.

Back in Llangollen, find a café, rest your legs and look up at the hill you’ve just climbed. Whether you came for the history, the views or simply some fresh air, Castell Dinas Brân brings them together in one memorable North East Wales outing.